Berg Lake
Saturday October 8th – Day 1
It’s early…well not THAT early - considering I haven’t had much sleep in the last few days and Evan’s alarm wakes me up…I think its early. It’s time to pack up the food, adjust the backpacks one more time and grab some breakfast before we drive to the trailhead for the hike up Mount Robson. Berg Lake Trail is about 1 hour west of Jasper, you have to cross into British Columbia to reach it and today our drive is grey, it’s raining and it’s not pleasant outside. At the bottom of the trail we assess the weather, layer up and head out, just over 1 km into the hike we pause to de layer… a customary issue I have with starting off too cold and forgetting that climbing UP a mountain will warm me in a hurry. At this point the ascent isn’t steep, the rain isn’t so bad, and we can tell it will turn to snow as we climb.
The clouds are dense, I barely feel like I’m in the mountains, just on a woodland trail. Occasionally the mountains peak out at us behind the low hanging clouds, serving as an ever present reminder of how miniscule we really are.
Fender is loving the outdoors and Evan and I chat as we climb. At the end of Kinney Lake we wander towards the Ranger Cabin to check it out. We have caught up to a group of girls who are also hiking and have stopped to make lunch. Evan and I snack on our energy bars and trail mix and opt to stop at the next camp as this shelter is quite busy with hikers. Past Kinney Lake the trail angels upwards steeply, the rocks are placed like stairs and all signs indicate that the ascent is littered with waterfalls and stunning views…we will have to assume that this is true as the clouds are still low and the rain is still drizzling. We can hear the falls rushing beside us but, for the most part, can only imagine what they look like. Just past Empire Falls there are actual stairs built into the trail…my legs have forgotten what to do and rebel against the change in motion. There are only 8 or so steps however I’m not thrilled about it. Upward ever upward…we reach the camp site at the start of Berg Lake and after I have myself a little pity party, sit for a short while and have a some more trail mix, I get over my soreness and opt to continue onto the Robson cabin to make a warm meal instead of that site. It was a smart decision as the snow is coming down, heavy and wet, and the rest of the trail is relatively flat. Even through the driving snow we can see the Berg Glacier, its stunning blues reflect off the lake and encourage us through the last few kms. Evan can see the benches on the beach front before I can and within minutes we are passing tenting sites and get to the cabin. There are hikers already in the cabin, a small fire is going and it is warm and dry. I unload a few things and Evan sets out to set up camp. Between organizing our digs and cooking dinner (pork chops and mashed potatoes) darkness comes early. We talk to the group of girls from Kelowna College who arrived just after us and a group of 5 (Alex, Michael, Jordan, Phil & Josh) from St. Albert who are also staying for two nights. We are tired from the hike and now sleepy from the warm food in our bellies. I relax into my sleeping bag and Evan tries to settle Fender into a space between the tent and the fly. Even though he has a thick coat of hair and a comfy thermarest, Fender is grouchy. He is cold and still a little wet from his many dips/wading into in the rivers and lakes. Despite the thermal layers, air mattress and down sleeping bag I am cold all night…so is Fender. Evan on the other hand is so hot he is sweating and is shedding layers. Fender and I have restless sleeps…as does Evan by proxy and by the time the sun has risen Fender is in the tent…almost within Evans sleeping bag and I am as close to their combined body heat as one can be when completely enclosed within a mummy bag.
Sunday October 9th – Day 2
Breakfast is oatmeal and coffee, I’m not overly hungry but I eat and drink, savoring the warmth. The storm and snow have stopped but the sky is still grey. Despite the persistent clouds I can better see the surrounding peaks and can almost make out Mount Robison’s Summit. Evan and I stay in the cabin for a few hours sawing up what wood we can find into burnable sizes and allowing Fender and I to warm up a little. Around noon we decide to head out and explore. We start out towards Snowbird Pass, around Rearguard Mountain and towards the Robson Glacier. The path is very flat and it’s a nice break from the climb yesterday and an easy way to appreciate the beauty surrounding us. This glacier isn’t as spectacular as the Berg glacier, although it is still commanding in its presence. A notice placed by the Alpine Club of Canada indicates the original base of the Robson Glacier (over 100 years ago) and I am stunned by the length it has retreated. We marvel in the changes to the landscape and bask in the commanding presence of Rearguard Mountain. On our way back we notice some Mountain Goats have passed behind us and we stop to appreciate their calm demeanor and snap a few photos. Their ability to walk up seemingly impossible rock faces is stunning.
From the Robson Glacier we turn back and head towards the Continental Divide. This is the Provincial boundary between Alberta and British Columbia and also the boundary between Jasper National Park and Mount Robson Provincial Park. We spend some time reading up on the two parks and I do the customary jump from one side of the divide to the other “Now its 3 pm…and now its 2 pm” I exclaimed as I hop from Alberta to BC. Fender tolerates my terrible jokes rather well…Evan on the other hand pretends I don’t exist. I’m rather pleased with myself. I’m sure this is the first time that particular joke has been made…
On the way back to camp we stop at the Berg Lake Ranger Cabin, its only a few kms from the Berg Lake Hut and Evan wants to haul some wood back as we are running pretty low. He carries two huge logs the 2 kms back to our camp. I’m thankful the ground is relatively flat an impressed by his stubbornness…the logs weren’t light by any means.
The girls from Kelowna have left but our friends from St Albert are back at the cabin and are delighted by the arrival of new fire wood! Evan immediately sets to work sawing the wood into more manageable sizes and soon enough the fire is roaring.
Seeing as how it IS Thanksgiving weekend, dinner is turkey breast, stuffing and mashed potatoes!! After feeding ourselves and Fender we drink tea and chat with the rest of the cabin. Darkness falls quickly and after a rousing game of cribbage it’s off to bed.
We get Fender settled into the tent itself as we are no longer relegating him to the fly and he makes himself at home with a fleece button up as a blanket and his head resting on my feet. I am immediately cold (besides my toes which Fender is warming) however the hot water bottle in my sleeping bag helps and I have slightly more restful sleep. But only slightly.
Monday October 10th – Day 3
Morning is bright with barely a cloud in the sky. Breakfast is once again oatmeal and coffee…I attempt to eat and take some photos of Mount Robson at the same time…it’s not the most successful or graceful moment of the trip. The oatmeal goes cold but the photos of Robson’s peak are stunning and I’m happy with the result.
We and the St. Albert group head down the mountain together. Fender is much happier this morning after sleeping in the tent and behaves well with the larger group.
The hike down is quick, only slowed by stops at the sights we didn’t see on the way up. Empire falls, Falls into pools and White Falls are no longer obscured by snow and clouds and we revel in the opportunity to take pictures on such a stunning day.
Once at the bottom we decide to rendezvous for a last meal together in Jasper. Goodbyes are said, Facebook friends are made and we all set off on our separate ways.
Berg Lake was amazing, a challenge but so worth it with rewarding views, comfortable rest stops and great friends. I can’t wait to go back in the spring and summer. There are so many more day hikes I would like to do from “base camp” at Berg Lake.